Helmut Lang Returns to its Roots

Wordsby Stephanie Malik

Photos courtesy of Pattern Indy

Helmut Lang has undergone a number of significant evolutions since its founding in the 1980’s by its Austrian namesake. Known as a canonical 90’s brand, Helmut Lang first partnered with Prada in the 90’s, then was later acquired by Prada in the mid-2000’s. Next it was sold off to a Japanese company, where it underwent a brand reinvention, and yadda yadda yadda it ended up having its last show a year-and-a-half ago under the guidance of Hood-By-Air’s Shayne Oliver. It’s been quite a ride for Helmut Lang to say the least, but the much tossed about brand seems to have finally found a home under Creative Director Mark Thomas, formerly of Givenchy and Joseph.

Thomas appears to have taken notes from the Helmet Lang archives in his inaugural FW2019 season with the iconic brand.  Although it is hard to tell if Lang is actually entering into new territory or merely bringing back its 90’s modern take on the classic suit. TBH, it doesn’t really matter because there is enough “newness” here to be interesting, and enough of the classics to be recognizably Lang and respect the integrity of the brand.

The aforementioned newness appeared to be primarily housed in metallic and lamé accents, but strongest of all is the sheer bodysuits underneath fire suit jackets. Sheer bodysuits are IT right now as far as we are concerned. #FreetheNipple2019

Other fun colorplay was at work when the collection ventured beyond the conservative monochromatic, and dove bravely into some bold pinks and transluscent fabrics. Under the direction of the label’s new OGs (including Thomas Cawson, formerly of Calvin Klein jeans under the reign of the near mythical fashion figure that is Raf Simons) we expect Helmut Lang to bounce back like Spalding. Also we fully support the use of models with sexy neck tatts-- just saying.